Interview: Nina Ašanin, mountain climber
In
love with Himalayas
Unlike
other sports, mountain climbing has no audience and no cameras. Ones who take
mountain climbing as a competition, do not respect the mountain law and remain
forever on the mountain slopes. The mountain respects you as much as you respect
it. Yourself is the only person you should compete against
By JOVANA
GRUBAČ
from Belgrade, SERBIA
Some call it
'the mountain of soul', others call it 'the mountain of death'. If you are about
to go on the Manaslu journey in order to conquer the top which is 8163 meters
high, you would probably prefer not to be aware of the fact that percentage of
death is 20 percent and that many had always remain there. Maybe the secret is
'that mountain will conquer you, not the other way around' as our Nina Adjanin
says for WAVE magazine. She is the girl who reached the top of the mountain
first, as a part of an expedition led by Dragan Jacimovic.
Did you
find conquering what some call 'the killer top' psychologically challenging?
Only after I returned from the expedition I found out that it was called
'the mountain of death', but overthere I heard they call it 'the mountain of soul',
at least the local inhabitants. The mountain got its 'nickname' due to the great
percentage of death, because every forth climber ends up dead and remains on the
montain sides forever. When turn your head towards the top from the base camp
and see the way how the wind going over 200 km per hour strips the snow from the
mountain reefs, you get the chills in your body knowing that you will be on that
very place within few days. Nevertheless, it is a tremendous challenge to climb
to any Himalaya top, because everything is intact, unknown, cruel and yet so irresistible.
Which
were the hardest moments on your Manaslu path? And which ones were the most beautiful
and memorable?
I had a hard time dealing with the uncertainty because
I didn't know if we are going to head to the top or not, considering very bad
weather conditions. The 20 day period filled with snow we spent in the base camp,
makes it very hard to bear psychologically. Pulling out the equipment to camp
# 2 on 6900 meters high and preparing for the final camp, was extremely difficult
to me. When I returned to the base camp next morning snow avalanche had covered
everything and I lost my equipment. The most beautiful moment was certainly arriving
to Kathmandu and taking a bath and washing my hair after 40 days.
You
passed through many places during your expedition. Were the local inhabitants
acquainted with your mission and did they find meeting you and other climbers
interesting?
Sama Goun, a village in the downs of Manaslu, is located
3,500 metres high, and the only way to get there is by a helicopter, so it is
completely isolated and sheltered form the foreigners and tourists. Our coming
there was a shock for the locals. They were looking at us, and we were looking
at them. The children were jumping around us, and when we showed them our pictures
on our cameras, the fact that they can see themselves in a small box was quite
a surprise for them. It is a great pleasure to see such a peaceful and good people
as Sherpas. Those people are always in a good mood, no matter the situation they
are into.
One third of the people who managed to reach the top were
from your expedition. Is this a matter of preparation or strong character and
perseverance?
It is a matter of good organization during the climbing,
where the leader of our expedition Dragan Jacimovic did a great job. We had good
weather conditions when we needed it the most, but our will to get on top was
crucial. In the base camp there were more than 350 people from all around, and
only 30 or so managed to reach the top, and one third were our people. That is
a great success.
You
were the first person to reach the top. What does this mean for you as a mountain
climber?
I usually like to say that the top of the mountain conquered
me, because I fell in love with Himalayas. I dedicated the reaching to Manaslu
top to the people who made possible for me to go there, such are sponsors and
friends. I was thinking of them and I really wished they were there with me and
able to see what I am seeing. The thing I dedicated to myself were the last ten
metres under the very top as I was getting closer. When you see that the top is
only few metres away and you are taking the last steps towards it, that is the
time that emotions are the strongest. Every step you take remains carved in your
mind. Everything you went through flashes by - the struggle, sweat, the sorrow,
the joy. The moment you reach top, you spread your arms and realise how much you
are worthy and capable of. And of course, you set new goals to fullfill in future.
In
what way did you prepare for facing possible dangerous situations?
It
is hard to prepare for something you will face for the first time in your life,
because we don't have high mountains to practice on. That is why we had to listen
to the leader and comply with the signals that mountain was sending to us. We
always stopped if there was a storm or bad weather conditions.
Are teams
competetive, and is this the wrong way to look at things in your case?
Unlike
many other sports, mountain climbing does not have an audience and there are no
cameras. The ones who take mountain climbing as a competition, usually don't respect
the law of the mountain and stay forever on mountain slopes. When I fulfil my
goal, I always set new objectives for myself.The mountain respects you as much
as u respect it. You are not supposed to compete with anyone but yourself.
Many
TV stations known around the world want exclusive rights to monitor and videotape
certain adventurous journeys. Is mountain climbing something that catches the
media attention?
People find very interesting watching shows and stories
in which they usually dont have a chance to participate in. One time, the journalist
who interviewed me told me: 'You people are like Martians to me. I simply cannot
understand how someone can work in such surroundings and conditions like you do'.
Extreme tourism is getting more popular these days. Is there any possibility
for people who never climbed to go and try conquering mountain tops as some kind
of a touristic 'trip'?
The technology is advancing and there is a
strong possibility that some kind of elevator to Everest will be constructed.
That is a normal way how things work. When that happens, mountain climbers will
set different goals for themselves. There is enough space for everyone in every
mountain - for the climbers, tourists and animals.
Is mountain climbing
an expensive sport?
It is a very expensive sport, especially because
we don't have big mountains we can climb on in our region, and they are thousands
of kilometres away, so it is quite expensive to even get there, not to mention
the cost of the equipment. The equipment has to be one hundred percent safe, because
your life depends on it. The fact that very few people in our country practice
mountail climbing, makes it harder for us to get the equipment we need, and of
course, buying it abroad requires more money.
Did mountain climbing
teach you things you can apply in everyday life?
It taught me to be
patient, and that nothing can be done properly in a fast way, and also to help
and support those who are not doing so well. The thing I am most proud of is,
that I learned how to enjoy in small things, and that it doesn't take a brand
new car to be happy - it is enough to turn around and watch the sunset on the
horison and enjoy its beauty.
Do you have plans to conquer another
mountain top?
We are going to Everest in March - it is a dream for
anyone who does what I do. The expedition will last more than two months, and
the idea is to gather the best alpinists of the Balkans.
(Published:
10.12.2008.)